The Temple Trail of Tamil Nadu
Last year in December, I had two weeks in Chennai, when the weather is at its best there, so I decided to explore the old temples of TN. While finalising the itinerary, I realized that there’s so much to see in TN that it was impossible to fit-in everything in a week-long road trip. And every location deserves the same attention.
This is what I finally did:
Chennai (and Mahabalipuram) — Vriddhachalam — Kumbakonam— Thanjavur — Madurai — Rameshwaram — Chennai
I love road trips. They take you through the heart of the countryside plus give you the flexibility to take breaks as desired. And Tamil Nadu is beautiful. A lot underrated, I would say. The temples there are overwhelmingly gorgeous, if I could put it down in a few words! The highways in TN are amongst the best that I have seen in the country, so the drive through remote villages and towns was an exhilarating experience. The landscape is vibrant green, especially in the Kaveri delta of Thanjavur district. You see endless blue skies, palm groves, banana tree clusters and lush green paddy fields on both sides of the road. What I also loved was the way the countryside is dotted with marshes and pink & white lily ponds. Driving through the heart of Chettinad meant you could savour some of the most authentic dishes in the eateries where the locals eat. The calm blue-green waters of Bay of Bengal, meeting the rough Indian Ocean is a sight to behold!
Most temples are dedicated to either Shiva or Vishnu. I also realized that Karthikeya (Kumar) is one of the most loved and worshipped deities in the South. The Paadal Petra Sthalam are 275 Shiva shrines that are revered in the verses of saints called Nayanars during the 3rd-8th century CE. These are amongst the greatest Shiva temples of the country. The Divya Desams are the 108 Vishnu temples glorified in the poems of the saints called Vaishnava Alvars.
Once I got into the temple drill, I picked up a lot of oft-repeated words like Arulmigu (the graceful one) — a title used as a prefix for the deity in the name of a temple, Koil (temple), Murugan and Subhramaniam (other names for Karthikeya), Perumal (another name for Vishnu), Gopuram (entrance to the temple premises), Mandapam (pillared prayer hall) and Dwajasthamba or Kodimaram (a flagstaff covered with a layer of copper, silver or gold sheet, normally seen in between the Gopuram and the Mandapam).
I would like to talk a little more about the Gopuram. Prior to this trip, I would think, these colourful pyramidical structures were the temple itself! I was surprised to find that it was not so. The temples in TN are massive, they comprise of several shrines spread across a huge area. Therefore, there are several Gopurams or entrances to the temple premises. A Gopuram has several tiers which taper as it goes upwards. At the ground-level there are huge wooden doors, often richly decorated. Gopurams are exquisitely embellished with sculptures of deities and themes derived from the Hindu mythology.
As someone from the North, my experience in the temples down South has been wonderfully different. The temples, despite their immense size, are very well kept and spotlessly clean. These medieval-era temples are made of huge blocks of stone with hundreds of intricately-carved stone sculptures of different deities. The dexterity of hands and finesse in the craftsmanship leaves one short of words.
Devotees are largely disciplined. The puja is performed by the priests, and thereafter they offer the bhasam and sindoor to everyone. There are little paper cuttings placed neatly in the corners/niches in which you may carry some of it home. You can request a special puja where you are allowed to be right in front of the sanctum sanctorum while the mantras are chanted by the priest. What I loved, was the practice of how colourful garlands of fresh flowers are placed around the necks of the devotees. The devotees may place these around each other too (like the husband may place it around his wife’s neck or a mother may do so for her daughter). Something worth appreciating, is the fact that, no one in the temple premises hounds you for alms or chases you to get a puja done.
The sanctum sanctorum is embedded deep inside the shrine and strictly no one can enter beyond the main Mandapam. Only the designated priests can. The idol of the deity or the lingam is very meticulously and beautifully decorated with fresh flowers and bhasam-sindoor. The shrine is illuminated with numerous oil lamps to give everything a divine glow. These temples can boast of some of the most imposing Lingams and Vishnu idols in the country.
Chennai
- Kapaleeswarar Temple
Believed to be one of the oldest and most revered temples of Chennai, Kapaleeswarar Temple is a shrine of Lord Shiva. Here, Goddess Parvati is worshipped as Karpagambal — ‘Goddess of the Wish-Yielding Tree’. The temple was originally built around the 7th century CE, in typical Dravidian style architecture.
2. Marundheeswarar Temple
This 1300 years old Shiva temple is situated in Thiruvanmiyur near the shores of the Bay of Bengal, Chennai. It is one of the 275 Paadal Petra Sthalams. The temple was widely expanded by Chola kings during the 11th century CE. The Marundeeswarar temple has been a place of curative worship for people with diseases.
Legend says that the sage Valmiki worshipped Shiva in this temple, that’s why the place is also called Thiruvalmikiyur or Thiruvanmiyur.
This is a rare shrine that faces west as the sun and moon both offer their prayers to the Lord during the sunset.
3. Parthasarathy Temple
The temple built by the Pallavas in the 6th CE is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. It is located at Thiruvallikeni and is one of the oldest structures in Chennai. It is among the 108 Divya Desams dedicated to Vishnu.
The Gopuram and Mandapas (pillared prayer hall) are beautifully decorated with elaborate carvings.
Mahabalipuram (Mamallapuram)
Shore Temple
It is a complex of exquisite shrines from the 8th CE, built on the shores of Bay of Bengal during the reign of Pallavas. It is one of the finest early examples of medieval south Indian temple architecture. Unlike other structures in Mahabalipuram, this is built of cut stones rather than carved out of caves. It has three shrines, two dedicated to Shiva and the other to Vishnu. The temple has a pyramidal tower with five storeys, topped by a cupola and finial. The main Shiva shrine faces East, so that the first sunrays fall on the lingam.
Marco Polo was one of the first few Europeans to visit Mahabalipuram and he called it a place with Seven Pagodas (six other structures are no longer standing). The name became very popular amongst all seafarers as a landmark on the sea routes.
The Mahabalipuram monuments and temples, including the Shore Temple complex, are a designated UNESCO World Heritage site.
Vriddhachalam
- Kolanjiappar Temple
This Dravidian-style temple is in a village on the outskirts of the town Vriddhachalam in Cuddalore district. It is dedicated to the deity Murugan.
The temple has a very unusual practice. In many temples, devotees tie a thread when they ask for a blessing from God. Here, the priest told me, one could write his “wish” on a piece of paper, which he would place near the idol of Murugan. Once the person’s wish is granted he must come back in 40 days for thanksgiving to the God!
2. Vriddhagiriswarar Temple
One of the shrines of the 275 Paadal Petra Sthalam, this Shiva shrine is in the town of Vriddhachalam.
Vriddhachalam comes from Vriddham — ancient and Achalam — a hill. It is said that Lord Shiva appeared here only in the form of a mount. Lord Shiva in the temple is Swayambumurthy. Of the 1008 Shiva shrines of the country considered in high esteem, Vriddhachalam is one.
Number five has a significance in this temple. There are murtis of five Gods, He is praised by five names, there are five Vinayakas in the temple, five Rishis had the darshan of Lord, there are five Gopurams in the temple and five Mandaps. There are five Kodimarams or flag posts with five Nandis. Puja is performed five times. The temple has five Raths for the Gods. The temple town has five names.
Kumbakonam
Kumbakonam is the temple town of Thanjavur district with 188 temples, about 40 km from Thanjavur city. It’s also famous for its bronze workmanship. The city is bounded by two rivers, the Kaveri River to the north and Arasalar River to the south.
Kumbakonam has been ruled by the Cholas, Pallavas, Mutharaiyars, Pandyas, the Vijayanagar empire, Nayaks and Marathas. It rose to be a prominent town between the 7th and 9th centuries CE, when it served as a capital of the Cholas. The city reached the zenith of its prosperity during the British rule when it was a prominent centre of European education and Hindu culture; and it acquired the name — “Cambridge of South India”.
- Sarangapani Temple
River Kaveri runs along this temple which is dedicated to Vishnu and is one of the Divya Desams. The temple is believed to be of significant antiquity with contributions at different times from Cholas, the Vijayanagar empire and the Nayaks.
2. Chakrapani Temple
The dedicated to Lord Vishnu who appears in the form of a discus or Chakra to put down the pride of Surya , who subsequently became his devotee. Like Shiva, Lord Chakrapani has a third eye on His forehead.
3. Kashi Viswanathar Temple
This is one of the most prominent Shiva shrines of Kumbakonam and one of the Paadal Petra Sthalams. Shiva is worshipped as Kasi Viswanathar, and his consort Parvati is depicted as Visalakshi.
The temple is on the banks of river Kaveri and has a huge water tank called the Mahamaham. The temple has a very unique shrine – Navakanniyar – dedicated to nine sacred rivers of India – Ganga, Yamuna, Saraswati, Sarayu, Krishna, Godavari, Narmada, Kaveri and Tungabhadra.
4. Airavatesvara Temple
A classic example of Dravidian architecture, this temple was built by the Chola emperor Rajaraja II in the 12th century CE. This Shiva temple is a treasure trove of art and architecture. The legend is that Airavata, the white elephant of Indra, worshipped Lord Shiva in this temple.
The ceiling has a beautiful carving of Shiva and Parvati inside an open lotus. All the dancing poses of Bharatanatyam are carved here in stone. The highlight of the temple is a beautifully carved stone chariot. Shiva’s consort has a dedicated shrine called the Periya Nayaki Amman temple.
5. Swaminathaswamy, Swamimalai Temple
This shrine of Lord Murugan sits on top of a small hill, on the banks of a tributary of Kaveri, while the shrines of his mother Meenakshi (Parvati) and father Shiva (Sundareswarar) is located downhill.
Gangaikonda Cholapuram
- Brihadeshwara Temple
This huge Shiva temple was built in 1035 CE by Rajendra Chola I as a part of his new capital, Cholapuram. It is now in Thanjavur district, between Kumbakonam and Thanjavur city.
The main temple opens to the sunrise and its sanctum, as well as the mandapas, are aligned on an east-west axis.The temple is famed for its bronze sculptures, artwork on its walls, the depiction of Nandi and the scale of its tower.
Thanjavur
- Brihadishvara or Big Temple
Brihadishvara Temple is a Shiva temple, on the banks of Kaveri. Built by the Chola king Rajaraja I between 1003 and 1010 CE. The original monuments of this 11th-century temple were built around a moat. It included gopura, the main temple, its massive tower, inscriptions, frescoes, and sculptures predominantly related to Shaivism, but also of Vaishnavism and Shaktism.
Built out of granite, the tower above the shrine is one of the tallest in South India. The temple has a massive colonnaded corridor and one of the largest Shiva lingams in India.
The temples of Brihadishvara, Gangaikonda Cholapuram and Airavatesvara are collectively a part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site and are known as the “Great Living Chola Temples” !
Thirukarukavur
- Sri Garbarakshambigai Amman Temple
This is an ancient temple of Shiva in Thirukarukavur in Thanjavur district. It has a very popular shrine of Goddess Sri Garbarakshambigai Amman, who is supposed to cure infertility in women and bless them with a safe delivery. Parents with their new-born babies and infants were offering their gratitude to the deity. There was a beautiful silver cradle, where mothers were placing their babies for blessings. Parents also performed Tula-Daan for their small children as an offering to the Goddess.
Madurai
- Meenakshi Amman Temple
The name Madurai is synonymous with the Meenakshi Sundareshwarar Temple. Located on the banks of the Vaigai river, it is actually a shrine of Sundareshwarar or Shiva, where Parvati is worshipped in the form of Goddess Meenakshi. This temple is one of the 275 Paadal Petra Sthalams.
The priest who gave us a complete tour of the temple, said, unlike other Shiva temples, here, the devotees first pay their obeisance to the Meenakshi Amman and then to the Mahadev. That is because, they need to seek the approval of the Goddess to visit her consort, Sundareshwarar. The Goddess looks absolutely resplendent in green.
2. Kallazhagar Temple
This Lord Vishnu shrine is in a village called Alagar Kovil, about 25 km from Madurai city. Constructed in the Dravidian style of architecture, it is one of the 108 Divya Desams dedicated to Vishnu, who is worshiped as Kallazhagar and his consort Lakshmi as Thirumamagal.
3. Solaimalai Murugan Temple
Alagar Kovil has another beautiful shrine dedicated to Lord Murugan. It is on top of a hill covered with dense forests and is quite close to the Vishnu temple. One can choose to go on foot or drive up in a vehicle. I went by car only because the temple was about to close, otherwise, I definitely recommend a climb through the scenic route.
Rameshwaram
- Ramanathaswamy Temple
Rameshwaram is in Ramanathapuram district of TN. This temple is not only a Shiva shrine but also one of the highly revered four Dhams and one of the twelve sacred Jyotirlinga temples. It is also one of the 275 Paadal Petra Sthalams. Lord Rama is said to have prayed to the lingam of Ramanathaswamy (Lord Shiva) at this spot, before crossing over to Lanka to fight Ravana and rescue Goddess Sita.
The temple was expanded during the 12th century CE by the Pandya dynasty. It has three huge corridors called Kovil Parakrams. While the Third Corridor is the longest temple corridor in the world with 1212 aesthetically carved pillars, the First Corridor is the oldest from the 12th century. The Second Corridor has 108 Shivlings. It also has an elephant that’s worshipped and that lives there!
2. The Kothandaramaswamy Temple
This is the only historical structure to survive the 1964 cyclone that washed away Dhanushkodi, a town near Rameshwaram. The temple has the deities of Rama, Lakshmana, Sita, Hanuman and Vibhishana. The temple is surrounded by sea and a motorable road leads to the temple.
Important to note:
1. Mahabalipuram is around 50 km from Chennai and can easily be a day trip
2. You may drop Cuddalore temples as it was a last minute detour after learning that Kumbakonam temples would be shut in the afternoon by the time I would reach from Chennai
3. Kumbakonam is the main temple town of Thanjavur district. Stay overnight to be able to see all major temples. From there you may head to Thanjavur city via Gangaikonda Cholapuram
4. You may skip Sri Garbarakshambigai Amman Temple if you have less time, as it’s a little off the main circuit.
5. Wear comfortable flip-flops or slip-on shoes only
6. Most temples shut between 12 pm – 4 pm, please check beforehand
7. There’s no mandatory saree or veshti required to be worn in these temples (if you are visiting other temples, please check beforehand).
8. Pictures inside the sanctum sanctorum are not allowed anywhere and in some temples(like the Meenakshi Amman and Ramanathaswamy temples), no camera/cellphone is allowed inside
For any feedback/info please write at namrata.wakhloo@gmail.com
