The Sharda Temple of Teetwal
|| Namaste Shaarade Devi Kaashmiira-Pura-Vaasini
Tvaam-Aham Praarthaye Nityam Vidyaa-Daanam Ca Dehi Me ||
Salutations to Devi Sharada, who resides in the abode of Kashmira,
To You, O Devi, I always pray; Please bestow on me the gift of knowledge
Kashmir is known as the Sharada Desh. Sharda is another name for Goddess Saraswati. She is a form of Shakti and Sharda Peeth is one of the Maha Shakti Peeths where Mata Sati’s right hand is believed to have fallen.
Sharda Peeth was also an ancient centre of learning located at village Shardi in the Kishanganga Valley of Kashmir (now Pakistan-Occupied-Kashmir). It was one of the most prominent universities in the Indian subcontinent between the 6th and 12th centuries CE. It was reputed for its vast library, collection of texts and writings of prominent scholars of those times. Prior to 1947, an annual pilgrimage used to go to Sharada, in which Kashmiri Pandits from all over Kashmir would travel to the shrine. A sudden stop came to this yatra as Pakistan illegally occupied portions of J&K including this village, therefore making it inaccessible to Indians.
Kashmiri Pandits are a resilient people. They have been uprooted from their native places several times but that has not stopped them from practising their faith. They have carried their Gods in their hearts and to the places where they could go and keep their belief alive. To be able to have darshan of Ragnya and Sharika Bhagwatis, we have a Khir Bhawani and a Parbath in NCR also, the originals being in Kashmir. Similarly, we now have shrines dedicated to Sharada in a few places in Kashmir, the latest being at Teetwal (Teerthbal) in the Kupwara district.
The village of Teetwal is right on the banks of River Kishanganga next to the LoC. The origin of this river is the high-altitude alpine lake called Krishansar in the Ganderbal district of Kashmir. Teetwal is the distorted version of the original name “Teerth-bal” — Teerth means a pilgrimage and Bal is a place (in Kashmiri). It is about 160 km from Srinagar and 80 km from Kupwara. On a good day, it should take you about 5 hrs to drive over from Srinagar. That is, if you choose to go straight to Teetwal with out any stops in-between. However, I would recommend you to start early from Srinagar and visit a few very important shrines enroute. Plan at least an overnight stay at Teetwal.
The route:
Srinagar–Pattan –Kupwara–Chowkibal–Sadhana Pass–Tangdhar-Teetwal (Karnah)
Only citizens of India can visit Teetwal as it lies in a very sensitive and high-security zone. Foreigners are not allowed. For your visit, you need to apply for a permit online. It is a simple process and you get your document in 3–4 days’ time.
http://epass.kupwara.co.in/apply/applycitizen
You would need to keep four copies of this e-permit and your identity card handy as the authorities would check the papers at four different checkpoints.
As you leave Srinagar, you move towards district Baramulla, which is North of Kashmir. You can have a quick stopover at the two ancient rock temples of Sugandha and Shankargaurishvara at Pattan. Both are Shiva shrines. You can pick up some snacks and water for your journey from here, if you haven’t already done so at Srinagar.
In Kupwara, you must definitely keep an hour or so for the Khir Bhawani temple at Tikker, which is about 5 km from the town. This is the shrine of Ragnya Bhagwati — her radiant presence in the centre of a holy spring so blissful. In the premises, are a few more shrines of Sharada, Mahadev and Shani Dev. You can also see here nine mighty Chinar trees representing the Nav Durga. Pre-1947, the yatra for Sharada Peeth used to be flagged-off from here. A highly-revered saint called Nand Lal ji who used to do sadhana at his ashram in Sharda village, moved to Tikker after 1947 and one can visit his ashram too here.
Kupwara town is the headquarters of the district and you can take a pit-stop break here. As you travel further, after about 8 km on the Chowkibal road towards Drangyari Valley, you cross the village of Trehgam, which is known for its ancient Shiva shrine. The temple is next to a natural spring, the water of which collects in the form of a huge pond in front of it. This spring is named as Chitragupt Nag. Huge Chinars render great shade to the shrine. A place with so much positive energy is a must-visit, either on your way to Teetwal or while returning. There’s an old Sufi shrine and a mosque also next to the temple.
On the Chowkibal road, as you cross Kralpora, you can see vast fields and orchards on both sides of the road. If you happen to visit during autumn, you are bound to see fruit-laden trees. I missed the sight as I went in springtime. The stretch of Chowkibal, Drangyari and Tee Pee offers absolutely stunning views. The thick forests and streams that dot the region make the place one of the most alluring ones. If you plan for a longer trip this side, you must visit Bangus valley too, which you can reach from Chowkibal. There are quite a few resthouses and huts of JKTDC available at these locations.
Drangyari Valley is so pristine and untouched. You pass through meadows and cross brooks between the tall mountains dotted with glaciers. Glaciers that melt slowly as summer arrives, to feed the rivers of the valley. As you drive towards Sadhna Pass, you would find a gushing stream flowing alongside. A great spot to hit the brakes and take the picnic basket out. Or simply, put your feet into the water and munch on some snacks while treating your eyes to the enchanting scene in the front. Mind you, you can’t keep your feet in the freezing water for more than a few minutes. The stream is called Drangyari Nar.
Tangdhar and Teethwal are located in the Karnah Valley, to reach which, you need to cross the Shamshabari mountain range through the Nastachun Pass. “Nastachun” in the local language of Pahadis means “Cut Nose” as the air there gets so freezing cold that one can’t feel his nose at all! It is a fiercely guarded mountain pass and checkpoint.
You would need to disembark your vehicle for a proper clearance. Do not miss visiting the view point from where you can see all the important peaks around you. Nastachun Pass is popularly known as Sadhna Pass after the famous actor of yesteryears, who visited the pass to interact with the soldiers post the 1965 war with Pakistan.
Once you descend into this farthest-most valley of Kashmir, you see the unspoilt verdant beauty of Tangdhar. It is famous for its walnut production and you can see walnut orchards all along the way. Kupwara, on the whole, is famous for its high-quality walnut produce.
From Tangdhar, you reach Teetwal in about 30–35 min through Karnah.
As you enter Teetwal, you simply fall in love with the quaint little village which rests on one of the banks of the river Kishanganga. On the other bank is the PoK. I had never seen the “other side” of our State from that close. It was right there in front of us — the houses, schools, playgrounds with people and vehicles moving on the roads just across the river. So close, yet so far!
The shrine of Sharda Devi is like a little gem with the idol looking so magnificent, done in golden colour, bejewelled and draped in a saree of colourful hues.
The shrine has four doors in the four cardinal directions, however, only the South door is open at the moment. The idol came from the Sringeri Mutt in the South as it traversed through the country to reach its ultimate abode – Kashmir! The sthapna was done a year back – in March 2023. A priest presides over the morning and evening aarti and the shrine is lovingly taken care of by our men in olive.
There a few interesting things that you can do while in Teetwal. Do take walks around the village and see how the locals live – their homes, fields and farms. Walk down to the Kishanganga for a holy dip to wash your sins off. Or find a quiet green patch to meditate. From the river bank, you can see the White Line bridge connecting the two Kashmirs!
There’s a Zero Point milestone from where with a permit from the officer incharge you can go to the White Line bridge and see the LoC up close.
While settling down in our room at night, it was kind of strange to see the lights twinkling in the homes of people living across the LoC. At one time, all the lights in the village across went out together and we laughed and shouted – “Arre, Pakistan mein light chali gayi”. It truly felt like checking the neighbourhood lights back in Delhi!
There is a yatri niwas and other guest houses in the village where one can stay. Decent food is available. Of course, everything is quite basic but clean & comfortable. It is always better to book everything in advance.
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And yes, on your way back don’t forget to carry the most delectable paneer from Chogal (near Handwara)!
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