In The Footsteps Of The Buddha — Part I

Namrata Wakhloo
6 min readDec 29, 2023

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A few years back, while browsing the internet, I came across this train that was probably newly-introduced by the Indian Railways. It covered all the main sites in and around Bihar related to Gautam Buddha. Until then, I had heard only of the Palace On Wheels, which as well knew, was a fancy one.

Earlier this month, I had free time and no company for travel, so I was exploring easy options for solo travel. That’s when the IRCTC webpage of The Buddhist Circuit Tourist Train popped up on my screen. It covered all those destinations where the Buddha had once walked and I had been to none. Two places that made it more appealing to me, and which I had been wanting to do for very long were Banaras and Lumbini. The only other familiar name on the itinerary was Bodh Gaya.

I sought more information on the package and called up on the number advertised. And I must tell you that I was more than pleasantly surprised that the phone got picked in an instant and the person on the other hand was very forthcoming with all details. The officer went out of his way to help me book the trip. Not something that you would expect from a government employee in India. So, that was a great start!

The Buddhist Circuit Tourist Train travel gives two great experiences. One of course, is that you get to walk the same earth where Gautam Buddha once lived. Second is that you don’t have to worry about how to cover these places which are spread out in a maze in far and distant locations in three different states/countries – Bihar (India), Uttar Pradesh (India) and Nepal.

The Buddhist Circuit Tourist Train itinerary :

New Delhi (Day 0) — Bodh Gaya — Rajgir&Nalanda — Varanasi&Sarnath — Lumbini — Kushinagar — Shravasti — Agra — New Delhi (Day 7)

We were a group of 35 travellers in a train that has the capacity of around 200 people, so we were completely pampered! The train stops at each destination, and an AC bus, complete with a very well-accomplished guide, takes you to all the places on the day’s itinerary.

The day would begin with morning tea at 6 am followed by a heavy breakfast at 7 am before setting out at 8 am. In some locations, we need to check-in into a hotel as the sightseeing continues the next day too. Most of the luggage can be left in one’s compartment on the train and only a backpack with a change of clothes and toiletries needs to be carried.

On the days there’s no overnight stay, short duration check-ins give one the comfort of a wash-up or relaxing time. Lunch/high tea is served at the restaurants in these hotels. On the day of longish bus travel, a snack box, in addition, is served too. So yes, a lot of sumptuous food every day!

We boarded the train at Safdarjung railway station in the afternoon and alighted at Gaya the next morning. From there a bus directly took us to Bodh Gaya where we checked-in into the Maha Bodhi hotel for an overnight stay. Did a few temple visits that evening and some the next morning.

The train offers you end-to-end comfort and ultimate ease of travel. The coaches are plush and the whole experience is very luxurious. You are taken care of, right from the moment you step into the railway station (Safdarjung) until you are bid goodbye at the same station eight days later. There’s a choice of different coaches — First and Second AC. The bio-vacuum toilets greatly reduce the requirement of water. A separate shower cubicle with an option of hot & cold water is available in each coach. There’s a fully-equipped pantry and kitchen aboard with an elaborate spread of menu for each meal, which is served in two restaurants with great ambience. There are well-equipped book shelves and foot massagers available too, for one to relax in leisure time.

Everything is maintained spotlessly clean throughout the journey as there’s dedicated support staff available 24*7 for each coach.

From Bodh Gaya we did a day trip to Rajgir and Nalanda by our bus and returned to our train that was parked at Gaya station. Dinner was aboard the train and we moved on to Varanasi station where we de-boarded the next morning after breakfast. Our bus was waiting for us to take us to Sarnath and later to the evening Ganga Aarti. In between, we checked-in into a hotel for a wash up and lunch. Also a bit of shopping time was thrown-in.

Varanasi Railway Station

Back on the train we left for Lumbini which is in Nepal and not far from the border.

We alighted at Nautanwa the next morning, which is the last railway station on the Indian side. Like everyday, we hopped on to our bus which took us across the border at Sonauli in UP. It is a simple security and immigration process , however, it can take some time depending upon how many vehicles are ahead of you. No visa is required for Indians, just an ID check (only the passport and the voter ID work). For the rest, visa on arrival works($30). It was just under an hour’s journey.

After checking-in into a hotel for an overnight stay, we visited the Mayadevi temple.

Lumbini

From Lumbini, the next morning, we drove down to Kushinagar. The drive takes around four hrs. There’s a lot to be explored in the town, so after lunch, we spent the rest of the day visiting the different temples and stupas before we boarded the train at Gorakhpur.

Our next stop was Balrampur. This was where we de-boarded for Shravasti, which was only a short drive from the station. At Shravasti we checked-in into a hotel for a wash up and lunch before proceeding for the tour of the town.

We left from Balrampur for Agra that evening. It was a longish overnight journey that got us to Agra (Tundla station) by late morning. A leisurely visit to the Taj and a good meal at a restaurant there, most of boarded the train back for Delhi. Some, who had an evening train or flight to catch, headed on their own to Delhi.

Tundla is an hour’s drive from Agra

After a relaxed tea and dinner on board, we reached Delhi on a quieter train, full of thoughts, reminiscing the brilliant week that had just gone by!

One of the two restaurant coaches

The hotels booked in all the cities were amongst the best the place had to offer. Smooth check-ins, great food and very comfortable rooms.

The lobby of Hotel Sapphire, Shravasti

During the trip, don’t forget to pick up some mouthwatering Tilkut in Gaya and Khaja from Rajgir!

Rajgir Khaja

Continued in Part II

All pictures are copyrighted. For any feedback/info please write to me at namratawakhloo@gmail.com

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